How the Textile and Fashion Industry Become Circular: Collaborative Frontrunner Practices Leading to Decentralized Collaborative Governance of Ecosystems

Allan  Næs Gjerding; Mette Vinther Larsen; Isabelle Marita Svane-Nielsen; Søren Kerndrup

doi:10.55845/joce-2026-3568

Authors

Allan Næs Gjerding Aalborg University Business School, Aalborg University Author https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2375-6703
Mette Vinther Larsen Aalborg University Business School, Aalborg University Author https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4966-8090
Isabelle Marita Svane-Nielsen Aalborg University Business School, Aalborg University Author https://orcid.org/0009-0003-8647-6113
Søren Kerndrup Department of Sustainability and Planning, Aalborg University Author https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6205-474X

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.55845/joce-2026-3568

Keywords:

Green Transition, Collaborative Governance, Ecosystems

Abstract

This paper discusses how the concept of collaborative governance may contribute to our understanding of the dynamics of circular business ecosystems. This is done in three steps. First, the concepts of circular business ecosystem and collaborative governance are discussed and combined. Second, the ensuing theoretical framework is used to analyze the circular business ecosystem behavior of seven frontrunner companies, especially focusing on ecosystem governance configuration and ecosystem role dynamics. Third, based on an identification of three patterns of strategic response among the frontrunners, the paper discusses variations of strategic behavior, ecosystem role dynamics, and changes of governance. By identifying and applying four theoretical insights from the combination of circular business ecosystem thinking and collaborative governance thinking, the paper develops a new framework for analyzing and understanding the interplay between strategic behavior and ecosystem evolution and co-evolution, including how ecosystem sensing and seizing deviate across different patterns of strategic behavior.

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