RCO100, 100% recycled cotton denim: A case study on circular-oriented innovation in the textiles and apparel sector

Cherie Nelson

doi:10.55845/LDQN3748

Authors

Cherie Nelson Cambridge University Institute for Sustainability Leadership Author

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.55845/LDQN3748

Keywords:

Circular Economy, Circular Oriented Innovation, Circular ecosystem, Textiles Recycling

Abstract

The prevailing linear model of the textiles and apparel (T&A) sector results in unsustainable impacts on
planetary boundaries. Transitioning to a circular model requires large-scale innovation facilitated by
unprecedented levels of pre-competitive collaboration.
This study investigates the determinants of successful Circular Oriented Innovation (COI) through a
qualitative case study of RCO100—a collaborative circular ecosystem that enabled the production of
denim from 100% recycled cotton. Combining desk research, stakeholder interviews, and fieldwork, the
research identifies critical success determinants: collaboration motives, iterative innovation processes,
complementary resources and competencies, shared purpose, trust-based collaboration and leadership
skills.
Findings highlight the interplay between organisational, technical, and relational dimensions in enabling
circular ecosystems. A key new insight is the importance of human (or soft) dimensions in determining
successful outcomes for COI. This research contributes to emerging scholarship on circular ecosystems by
providing a nuanced understanding of COI success determinants. The results inform businesses,
policymakers and CE facilitators seeking to scale circularity within legacy sectors.

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