Two Sides of the Same Cloth: Exploring the Second-Hand Clothing Trade in Africa from a Circular Lens
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.55845/joce-2026-41197Keywords:
Anthropocene, Global Governance, Illicit Markets, North-South Trade, Textile Waste, Trade WarsAbstract
While supporting local trade and clothing needs, the global second-hand clothing market in Africa has also been reported to have widespread adverse effects on environmental and socio-economic sustainability. This study provides a pioneering quantitative overview of the second-hand clothing trade in Africa from a circular-economy perspective. It begins with a summary of global trade, then analyses historical trends over 30 years (1990 to 2020) and describes current and representative trade flows within Africa using material flow and network analysis. Results reveal a consistent pattern of 15 times more imports than exports, with countries in West Africa, such as Ghana and Nigeria, and in East Africa, such as Kenya and Tanzania, leading as importers. Meanwhile, the United States, Canada, Germany, France, PR China, and the United Arab Emirates act as main exporters. Additionally, significant intracontinental trade was observed, with regional hubs in Togo, Tanzania, and South Africa. The insights indicate that trade activities are not circular, are characterised by significant trade imbalances, and place the burden on African countries. Due to inadequate policies and infrastructure, this situation undermines the net environmental benefits of circular systems and constrains sustainable waste management, just transition, and global governance agendas.
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